I only have like 2 "rules for stacking" and a couple of modifiers, or exceptions. These have served me very well over the years, I have exceeded one of the larger goals put forth by the stacking community. NO, not "own your body weight in SILVER" 🤣 That would be sweet but I am not there and may never be!
RULE NUMBER ONE:
Always buy BULLION.
RULE NUMBER TWO:
Always buy the lowest premium available.
- Buy "COINS" as opposed to generic rounds, at least for a portion of the stack.
I started with ASE (American Silver Eagles) and I bought enough at once to get the Free Shipping and Insurance. That was, at that time, $2500 and I bought 124 Silver Eagles, 2010 as I recall. That was the best deal at that time, and I maxed it out.
Other times I have bought Generic Rounds, but I typically buy Coins. But always buy for the best deals/lowest premiums. If shipping and insurance is not included, factor these prices in versus a dealer with free shipping. The math is not too hard...
- Avoid "poured silver" and new ART BARS, (novelty items) unless it fits the above rules. But never say NEVER! I have a few exceptions, such as Valcambi Combi-Bar and Divisible Rounds. These are for the possible "SHTF" and temporary or permanent loss of the Fiat Monetary system. I think I have enough divisible and fractional for the SHTF Scenarios.
- Don't have TOO MUCH "Junk Silver", I am converting some of my extensive stack of old circulated US Coinage to Bullion. But I will keep a good part for possible SHTF or barter. I have quite the collection of Morgan and Peace silver dollars, and they command a premium nearing the price of a full ozT of bullion in some cases. I believe this is temporary. I got most of my Constitutional Silver at a very good price in a Bull Market, these coins were marked prior to a run-up and I was in this shop every week until I had gobbled up all the Wagon Wheels (silver dollars) and halves and most of the quarters. They were priced at spot values of around $15 and I bought when it was like $18, but with the outdated pricing. The seller still made money, everyone's Happy! 😋😋😋 I also believe that in a supercharged "all in bull" that the old coinage will be less of a priority to refiners when prices peak. Why waste the extra time and prep on the 90% (and lower) pieces when the pure stuff is even more plentiful??? This happened in 1980, at Silver's "ATH" and people were turning away coins in favor of the .999 stuff.
- NEVER PASS UP A GREAT DEAL!!! But be ready to verify the items in question. So if your friends decide to sell some poured silver for Spot Price, grab it! But know how to verify these. I also grab great buys on old US coins and specials from my big retailers like SDBullion, APMEX, JM Bullion, etc. SDB is my "go-to" dealer 💪
THESE RULES APPLY SEPARATELY FOR BUYING GOLD!
That means I would only buy SILVER if I did not separate my Gold buying from my Silver. I have bought a little Gold on the tail end of a Silver order, and Vice-versa. Gold being so much higher, but I believe it has it's place. GOLD is a fine hedge against inflation, but SILVER is an investment. I believe the price of Gold is somewhat suppressed as well, but Silver has much more upside.
These are my Personal Rules, and presented here as a counterpoint to the way that many buy Precious Metals. I appreciate ANY Stacker who buys PMs, but in my own unique fashion, I do it "MY WAY". I wrote this article to lay out my method, and some of the things I have learned along the way. I have used my "exceptions" many times, but usually I just get Good Deals because I shop around a lot. I avoid the Numismatic Slabbed ASE's and Numi Coins like the plague, but I still have a quite varied collection because I bought these AT SPOT in most cases. Totally lucky find that I got a first and second year slabbed ASE's (MS69) for spot. They are worth about $75 each and I paid waaaaay less! LUCK o' the IRISH!
I do have a few poured bars, bought in honor of my fine stacking friends! I do believe in "making it fun" and it gets boring just looking at ASE's all day 🤣
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